Marc Jacobs wanted "severity and fetish" in his latest collection.

The fall/winter 2011-12 look focuses on sexiness and the designer says he was keen to take his new line to the limit.

He told Matches magazine: "I wanted severity and fetish. It was about rules and dress codes which are taken to different places and made a bit caricature."

However, fellow his fellow designer Phoebe Philo wanted her collection to be a little more reserved.

The Celine sartorialist said: "I like the idea of women not showing too much, of being quite reserved in a way, and quite covered."

As well as his "fetish" collection, Marc recently revealed he is to create a plus-sized clothing line.

The designer will become the first top fashion label to create clothes for women above a UK Size 14 as he feels females with bigger body shapes should be able to have as much choice as those with slimmer frames.

Robert Duffy - president of the Marc Jacobs label - told followers of his twitter page: "We are in talks now. For plus sizes. Listen, we are in the very beginning stages of talking to a partner about plus sizes.

"I'm a big guy 6ft 4in, 210 lbs. It's not easy for me to find clothes. Of course I can have them made. I know how everyone feels. I try to diet but... I don't like the phrase plus-sizes. Any suggestions?

"We gotta do larger sizes. I'm with you. As soon as I get back to NY. I'm on it! It will take me about a year. But stay with us. (sic)"